Researchers from University of Fukui, Japan have optimized a decolorization process, known as supercritical fluid dyeing, in which supercritical carbon dioxide effectively penetrates fabric fibers to remove the dyes. The extracted dyes can be reused, and the fabrics be redyed. The study was led by Professor Kazumasa Hirogaki and Visiting Professor Teruo Hori and achieved successful optimization of the decolorization process, enabling the dye removal from clothes with minimal environmental impact. This study builds on outcomes from the NEDO Feasibility Study Program/Feasibility Study Program on New Technology and was further developed under the JST COI-NEXT Program on open innovation platforms for industry-academia co-creation (COI-NEXT).

The researchers first created supercritical carbon dioxide (CO2) fluid inside a specialized heated and pressurized vessel and mixed it with a decolorizing agent before adding it to the dyed fabric. The idea was that by adding a decolorizing agent with a solubility parameter between those of the dye and the fabric, efficient decolorization could be achieved. Based on this premise, three decolorization methods can be outlined— to be used depending on the characteristics of the textile, the dyes, and the decolorizing agent.

The first method is called solvent trapping, in which supercritical CO2 dissolves and then traps the dye in a solvent phase at the bottom of the vessel. In contrast, the solid trapping method involves re-treating a processing body with a decolorizing agent or placing an adsorbent in the vessel. The supercritical fluid extracts the dye and then traps it onto the processing body or adsorbent. Finally, in the homogenous method, the decolorizing agent is completely dissolved in the supercritical fluid and the extracted dye also dissolves in the supercritical fluid.

Using these techniques, an astounding decolorization rate of over 90-100% was achieved. Notably, this strategy was found to be effective for polyester fabrics. Moreover, the processing liquids, extracted dyes, and decolorizing agents can also be repurposed and reused effectively.

Owing to its tremendous potential in terms of sustainability, the team of researchers from University of Fukui is actively seeking to commercialize this technology, with hopes of transforming the “make, use, and dispose” model of the textile industry into a truly circular and sustainable “make, use, and reuse” model.

Reference:

Research project name:

NEDO Feasibility Study Program / Feasibility Study Program on New Technology

JST COI-NEXT Program on open innovation platforms for industry-academia co-creation (COI-NEXT). 

Researchers name: Professor Kazumasa Hirogaki, Visiting Professor and President of SUSTAINA TECH Co., Ltd. Teruo Hori.          

Affiliation: University of Fukui

Link to research project summary page: https://fukumira.hisac.u-fukui.ac.jp/ 

Posted: October 23, 2024

Source: University of Fukui

Founded by Sanjeev Bahl, SAITEX is a global leader in sustainable garment manufacturing, known for its innovative approach to reducing the environmental impact of textile production. Founded in 2001, the company operates with a commitment to sustainability, circularity, and social responsibility. With facilities in Vietnam and Los Angeles, SAITEX employs cutting-edge technologies such as closed-loop water systems, energy-efficient processes, and clean chemistry to minimize waste and carbon emissions. The garment operation is bluesign, Fair Trade, LEED, and B Corp certified, underscoring its dedication to ethical manufacturing practices.

SAITEX partners with leading global brands to create high-quality denim and apparel while continuously pushing the boundaries of responsible production, setting a benchmark for the future of fashion.

Now that both the SAITEX Mill and Laundry are bluesign® system partners, brands can label their denim garments as bluesign DENIM, produced and processed entirely within SAITEX’s facilities. The bluesign DENIM label requires that the denim fabric is bluesign APPROVED from a system partner mill, and that the garment is processed in a system partner laundry, ensuring compliance with bluesign’s strict environmental criteria. This allows brands to source bluesign APPROVED denim fabrics directly from SAITEX Mill, have the garments processed at SAITEX Laundry, and achieve an end-to-end clean denim production process for consumers. With bluesign® APPROVED chemicals used in both fabric manufacturing and garment processing, brands can easily meet sustainability standards with SAITEX as their one-stop solution for clean denim.

This partnership aligns with bluesign’s dedication to reducing the textile industry’s environmental footprint by ensuring that textiles are made with responsible resource usage and worker safety. By becoming a bluesign System Partner, SAITEX enhances its commitment to eco-friendly production practices, offering transparency and traceability throughout the garment life cycle.

Opened in 2022, SAITEX’s fabric mill near Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, represents the next generation of sustainable manufacturing. The mill integrates spinning, weaving, dyeing, and finishing processes under one roof, with a core focus on environmental responsibility. Leveraging advanced technologies, it reduces energy consumption, minimizes the use of harmful chemicals, and is on track to build a closed-loop water system to minimize freshwater intake, which will be completed by mid-2025. This state-of-the-art facility reflects SAITEX’s commitment to setting new standards for responsible production and circularity in the global textile industry.

• The mill features solar panels with a 3-4 MW capacity, reducing carbon emissions by 2,000+ tons annually.
• The facility is designed with LEED Gold Certified specifications, ensuring minimal environmental impact through energy efficiency. LEED Gold certification is expected in November 2024.
• The mill utilizes Smart-Indigo technology for hydrosulfite-free dyeing, resulting in 90% less CO2 emissions, 70% less energy use, and 30% less water consumption.
• SAITEX aims to achieve carbon neutrality by 2030 through continued innovations in energy and resource efficiency.
• The fully vertically integrated mill, from spinning to garment manufacturing, ensures lower environmental impact on both the fabric and laundry sides of the production process.

Sanjeev Bahl, CEO of SAITEX, said, “Becoming a bluesign System Partner is another step in reinforcing our mission of sustainability, transparency, and responsibility. With bluesign, we’re not just setting a new standard for responsible denim manufacturing; we’re driving a broader movement toward clean chemistry. This is about creating a system that’s safe for people and the planet—putting the human side of manufacturing at the center of everything we do. It’s our responsibility to ensure that our processes are as clean as they are efficient.”

Daniel Rüfenacht, CEO of bluesign, added, “We were proud to welcome SAITEX Laundry into bluesign over 10 years ago as the first system partner denim laundry in the world, and it is thrilling for us to now have SAITEX Mill join the system partnership as well. Brands can now source bluesign APPROVED denim fabrics from SAITEX Mill for their collections, and with both the mill and laundry as system partners, they can label their denim garments as bluesign DENIM, ensuring a fully compliant and sustainable production process under one roof. Together, we are making significant strides toward reducing the global environmental impact of denim production.”

This partnership strengthens bluesign’s Denim Initiative, which brings together key players in the denim industry to create safer, more sustainable denim products. With SAITEX’s vertical integration and advanced technology, the global denim market is one step closer to achieving environmental responsibility and social equity.

Posted: October 21, 2024

Source: bluesign®

Featuring more than 50,000 artifacts, journals, and books — such as the Turkey Red Collection and handwritten dyers’ notebooks recording the transition from natural to synthetic dyes — the archive is being meticulously catalogued by the SDC’s historical collections officer, Shelley Hollingdrake.

“We are only at the beginning of this exciting journey, but the new website already allows us to engage with our community in a truly meaningful way,” Hollingdrake said. “From 19th-century dyes to scientific equipment, the collection offers a unique glimpse into the evolution of color science and its global impact. It’s incredibly rewarding to share the rich history of textile dyeing with a wider audience.”

Compiled in honor of the Society’s 140th year in operation this year, the interactive archive not only highlights the artistry and science of the past but also provides an invaluable tool for modern-day research and education. The collection can be explored online at collections.sdc.org.uk.

In addition to the digital launch, the SDC is preparing to host the 43rd International Conference on Dyes in History and Archaeology (DHA43) from 23-25 October 2024 at Leeds’ Cloth Hall Court, where the collection will be showcased in person. With 24 presentations on the history of color, the conference will spotlight the importance of archives like the SDC’s in advancing both academic research and industry practice.

Posted: October 21, 2024

Source: The Society of Dyers and Colourists (SDC)

TSS serves some of the largest e-commerce and retail brands and has been a pioneer in print-on-demand services over the past decade, catering to online brands, high street retailers, and promotional businesses. By integrating Kornit’s MAX technology and the newly added Apollo platform, TSS has optimized its production processes to better meet the demands of the rapidly growing online market.

“Creativity, innovation, and automation are at the core of our business, allowing us to consistently deliver unmatched quality to leading brands worldwide,” said Adam Golder, T-Shirt & Sons. “The Kornit Apollo is a game-changer in on-demand production. It delivers exceptional results that speed up our time-to-market and optimize production runs. With the Apollo joining our existing fleet of MAX systems, we’re well-positioned to meet the evolving demands of our customers and scale our business even further.”

Ronen Samuel, CEO at Kornit Digital, added, “Manufacturers like TSS are transforming their operations to meet the needs of an increasingly demanding market. As a print-on-demand leader, TSS relies on both speed and quality for success. With the adoption of Apollo, TSS is not only streamlining its operations but also scaling production to new heights.”

Posted: October 18, 2024

Source: Kornit Digital

The launch of Jeanologia’s first laser in 1999 marked the beginning of a new era for the textile industry, improving sustainability, quality, and efficiency. By eliminating hazardous practices like sandblasting, this disruptive technology enhanced processes and redefined the concepts of innovation and sustainability in an industry rooted in craftsmanship. Today, this technology is used in 50% of global jean production, solidifying its position as an essential tool for top manufacturers and fashion brands.

Jeanologia has successfully integrated laser technology into the DNA of denim without losing sight of its classic heritage. This balance between tradition and modernity has cemented its significant impact on the industry. “Laser has enabled more sustainable production and opened up creative possibilities that were once unimaginable,” said Fernando Cardona, Head of Jeanologia’s Brainbox.

25 LASER YEARS capsule collection of ‘old new designs’

To commemorate this milestone at Kingpins Amsterdam, Jeanologia will offer an interactive visual journey through the history of their laser technology and present a specially designed capsule collection to celebrate this anniversary.

This installation will showcase a special collection that captures the magic of laser by merging the classic with the modern. Patches, embroidery, and natural wear effects evoke the nostalgia of traditional denim, while the technology plays the silent protagonist behind each finish. The garments illustrate how laser allows iconic vintage effects such as stone washing, worn-out looks, washing marks, rips, and marbling effects using tools like the “Light Ripper” or “Light Scrapper.” The collection also explores the numerous creative possibilities these tools enable, including hyper realistic laser details, denim elements and bleach-like stains. This nostalgic approach invites the reinterpretation of the past through updated historical models that encapsulate the idea of continuous evolution and improvement in laser design.

This “old new designs” capsule collection symbolizes the connection between Jeanologia’s legacy and its vision of a greener, more responsible textile industry, celebrating its history while inviting both the industry and consumers to be part of a more sustainable future in denim.

As part of the 25th-anniversary celebration, Jeanologia will offer a digital version of this capsule collection, with 25 digital designs that pay homage to the evolution of laser technology and its transformative impact. Visitors can also experience the unique digital design process with eDesigner software, taking home their digital garment to produce it sustainably anywhere in the world.

Jeanologia invites brands, designers, and consumers to be part of a new era of denim, where tradition and technology merge to create a greener, more innovative, and sustainable future.

A tribute to the ‘Denim Tribe’

Jeanologia does not commemorate this anniversary alone. The collections and the accompanying narrative are a shared tribute to the global community of brands, designers, and manufacturers who have embraced laser technology and contributed to its progress. “More than a celebration for Jeanologia, this is recognition of the entire industry, the ‘denim tribe’ that has courageously and responsibly adopted this technology, advancing towards a more sustainable future in fashion. Without their collaboration, we wouldn’t have achieved this impact,” emphasizes the Head of Technological Development at Jeanologia.

Jeanologia: over 25 years transforming the textile industry

Since 1994, Jeanologia’s mission has been to create an ethical, sustainable, and eco-efficient textile industry. The company works closely with brands, retailers, and their suppliers on their transformative journey, offering disruptive technologies, innovative software, and a new operational model. Its revolutionary solutions, such as laser technology, G2 ozone, Dancing Box, e-flow, and H2Zero, have revolutionized the textile sector, offering unlimited design and finishing possibilities. These advances not only reduce costs but also save water, energy, and chemicals, ensuring zero pollution.

In 2024, Jeanologia celebrates the 25th anniversary of its pioneering laser technology, launched in 1999, which revolutionized denim finishing by replacing harmful practices and eliminating the use of harmful substances. With the same purpose, Jeanologia now faces the dual challenge of reducing the environmental impact of garment dyeing processes—one of the most polluting in the industry—through its revolutionary ColorBox technology and implementing its ATMOS ozone washing process as the reference technique for eco-efficient denim aging.

Posted: October 17, 2024

Source: Jeanologia

Fanny Vermandel, vice president of Global Marketing Coloration at DyStar Group, said: “DyStar is very pleased to receive the newly minted accolades from Adidas, as it further demonstrates our unwavering commitment to supporting the success of our customers, including brands and retailers, in their sustainability journey towards achieving their 2030 goal of 100 percent ZDHC MRSL Conformance.”

As a responsible leader in dyestuff and chemical manufacturer, DyStar offers over 2,100 products listed on the ZDHC Gateway that meet the ZDHC MRSL V3.1 specifications. Brands and Retailers and other stakeholders can leverage DyStar’s expertise to support their journey towards ZDHC MRSL conformance. To date, 99.7 percent of DyStar’s products listed on ZDHC have achieved the highest accreditation level of 3.

Customers can also be assured through DyStar’s econfidence® program which specifically supports product safety and ecology issues associated with the manufacture and marketing of its products. Launched in 2003, the program initially served as a foundation for eco-compliance.

To learn more about DyStar’s Sustainable Solutions, visit us at:

www.dystar.com/decarbonization-of-the-textile-supply-chain/

Posted: October 15, 2024

Source: DyStar

Bio-based pigment printing is an emerging technology that is attracting major interest from brands that want to use pigments derived from natural sources, such as plants, in the production of environmentally conscious textiles. Until now, however, bio-based pigments have not delivered color fastness that is comparable to synthetic pigments, and color quality and production performance have not been sufficient to support commercial-scale production.

Archroma’s NTR Printing System is the first to utilize renewable feedstock* across pigment dispersion, binder and fixing agent. Crucially, it ensures good wet-rubbing and dry-rubbing fastness, with outstanding softness on all kinds of fabrics. Furthermore, it is suitable for most popular application technologies, including printing, coating and continuous pigment dyeing, with outstanding runnability for production efficiency.

“These properties make the new NTR Printing System ideal for the highly competitive denim market, where sustainability, comfort and durability are important; for knits, where very soft handfeel is essential; and on babywear, where both exceptional softness and safety are required,” said Joaquin Femat, Market Segment director for Printing, Archroma.

“This latest breakthrough is another example of innovation under Archroma’s “PLANET CONSCIOUS+” roadmap. We develop revolutionary products, systems, and technologies with increased sustainability features than available market alternatives and enhanced value so that brands and mills can differentiate themselves with solutions that meet their business goals and sustainability targets,” he continued.

The result of more than two years of research and development, the innovative new NTR Printing System required Archroma to create customized binding and fixing agents to ensure fastness for the pigment black dispersion comparable to current petroleum-based printing systems. All three printing elements are partially based on renewable feedstock to reduce reliance on non-renewable petrochemicals. Archroma also developed the new system to avoid toxic input streams and impurities, including formaldehyde. Two successful bulk trials were conducted with Textprint S. A. and Jeanologia.

The NTR printing system comprises the following highly efficient and robust printing elements:

• PRINTOFIX® BLACK NTR-TF: A non-gelling pigment black with 79% renewable carbon content*, designed for use in textile applications with no impact on fastness levels.
• HELIZARIN® NTR-SS: A formaldehyde-free super-soft binder with 40% renewable carbon content**, designed to ensure very good overall fastness levels.
• LUPRINTOL® FIXING AGENT NTR-HF: A formaldehyde-free fixing agent with 40% renewable carbon content**, designed for high wet fastness in rubbing and laundry.

All three elements are currently being evaluated for compliance with globally accepted standards like bluesign®, the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC). The system also supports major industry restricted substances list (RSL) requirements.

“With the launch of the bio-based NTR Printing System, Archroma can now draw on the industry’s most complete portfolio of innovative printing solutions to tailor systems for individual customer needs,” Femat said. “We remain the global leader in pigment printing, with a history of innovation that includes the first formaldehyde-free pigment printing system, introduced in 2012.”

* The NTR printing system utilizes partially renewable raw materials.
** Based on ASTM D6866 bio-based product testing using radiocarbon analysis

Posted: October 14, 2024

Source: Archroma

Recognized as the undisputed industry leader in PFAS testing, SGS is the partner of choice for organizations looking to foster a positive impact on society and the environment. With the broadest scope of testing and accreditation, SGS brings global expertise, state-of-the-art laboratories and extensive knowledge in environmental and product analysis to identify and quantify PFAS accurately.

Its expert teams provide precise, reliable testing to support stakeholders in meeting regulatory requirements and demonstrating product safety. This helps minimize PFAS contamination, protect public health, safeguard the environment, and prevent harmful leaching from products.

Recently, SGS supported a pivotal New Jersey study on PFAS levels in water, soil and fish that contributed towards fish consumption advisories to protect at-risk consumers.

PFAS are a diverse group of chemicals, useful for their oil and water repellant properties, that are recognized as persistent, toxic and harmful to human health and the environment. Prolonged exposure to PFAS can cause a wide range of conditions, from cancer and thyroid disease to impaired fertility and weakened immune response.

Upon request of the US Environment Protection Agency (US EPA), the company notably developed the benchmark reference method for PFAS testing, known as the EPA 1633 method, for the US EPA and the US Department of Defense.

“With growing global scrutiny on PFAS and their impact on health and the environment, our expanded testing services empower businesses to take proactive steps in mitigating these risks,” said Géraldine Picaud, CEO of SGS. “We are proud to be at the forefront of this effort, providing trusted solutions that promote safety and sustainability.”

Posted: October 14, 2024

Source: SGS 

Jean-Pierre Inchauspe, Jeanologia’s Business Director for Asia, highlights the significance of this showcase: “ITMA Asia is the perfect stage to demonstrate how our technologies are revolutionizing the textile industry by seamlessly integrating sustainability and efficiency into every step of the production process. As the world’s leading textile producer, China plays a pivotal role in advancing eco-efficiency in the industry, and we are proud to contribute to that change.”

This year marks the 25th anniversary of Jeanologia’s laser technology, which has transformed denim production and design. Since its introduction in 1999, the technology has eliminated harmful practices like sandblasting and has evolved to boost productivity through automation and resource optimization, all while delivering consistent, high-quality results. It has also revolutionized the industry by enabling precise, natural-looking reproduction, raising the standard for garment aesthetics. Committed to sustainability, the latest laser technology eliminates the need for PP spray and sandpaper, promoting a more ethical and responsible denim production process that reduces both water and hazardous chemicals usage.

A new era of waterless stone washing

Jeanologia’s dedicaton to sustainability extends to other innovations, including the G2+ INDRA system for garment washing, which will be featured at ITMA Asia. This revolutionary system ages jeans using only atmospheric elements, eliminating the need for water and pumice stones. As a groundbreaking alternative to traditional stone-washing, it reducing water consumption by up to 96 percent.

“With G2+ INDRA, we’ve introduces a disruptive shift in denim production. Not only do we optimize resources, but we also deliver a sustainable and authentic finish­–setting the standard for the future of fashion,” Inchauspe said. With the capacity to process up to 50 million jeans annually, Jeanologia anticipates rapid adoption of this technology in the coming years, accelerating the fashion industry’s shift toward sustainable practices.

In Shanghai, the company will also showcase its solutions for knitwear, including the ColorBox equipment line for garment dyeing, and the application of the G2 + Indra system for color aging.

ColorBox offers a sustainable dyeing alternative, reducing water, chemicals, salts, and energy usage–cutting water and chemical use by 60 percent, energy by 45 percent, and salt by 76 percent compared to conventional dyeing methods. This solution not only minimizes environmental impact but also ensures precise color reproduction, allowing rapid responds to demand and trends by applying the dyeing process directly onto garments.

Jeanologia will further demonstrate how its G2 Ozone technology, powered by the patented Indra system, enables natural color aging and creates tie-dye and iced effects without hazardous chemicals, while significantly conserving water.

A strong commitment to China and global sustainability

Jeanologia has been active in China for over 18 years, installing more than 400 machines and establishing a team of local laser designers and product reengineering experts. This commitment underscores China’s vital role as a global textile producer and a key player in the adoption of sustainable practices.

Jeanologia’s “China for China” strategy supports the country’s leadership by providing cutting-edge technological solutions that align economic growth with environmental protection. Currently, over 20 percent of all jeans produced in China are made using Jeanologia’s technologies, solidifying its position as a trusted partner for major brands.

At ITMA Asia, Jeanologia will invite industry professionals to explore how its technologies can help transform the textile industry into a more circular model, free of water and waste. “We are leading the way to a new era in fashion — one that is digital, automated, and truly sustainable, benefiting both people and the planet,” Inchauspe concluded.

Jeanologia continues to prove that technological innovation can go hand in hand with sustainability and efficiency. At ITMA Asia, it will further cement its role as a leader in the global transformation of the textile industry.

Posted: October 14, 2024

Source: Jeanologia

FUZE textile treatment, called F1, is a chemical-free, water-based solution that permanently adheres to materials without the need for binders or surfactants. Setting a new standard for antimicrobial performance, FUZE F1 is the first treatment proven to last more than 100 washes, even through the harshest commercial laundering processes. This durability ensures a better guest experience and significant cost savings for properties due to shorter drying times.

“We are excited to bring FUZE technology to the hospitality industry,” said Lexi Schladenhauffen, chief merchandising officer of 1888 Mills. “Our partnership with FUZE Technologies allows us to offer our clients a revolutionary product that not only enhances the cleanliness and safety of their textiles but also contributes to sustainability and cost-efficiency. This collaboration aligns perfectly with our commitment to innovation and excellence.”

FUZE F1 offers numerous benefits, including being chemical-free, non-toxic, and environmentally safe with a zero-carbon footprint. Its non-leaching and non-ionic properties ensure no harmful residues are released, making it safe for users and the environment. FUZE boasts exceptional durability, maintaining antimicrobial properties for more than 100 washes, even under rigorous commercial laundering. Additionally, it delivers cost savings through reduced drying times, leading to lower energy consumption and operational costs.

Andrew Peterson, CEO and chief technology officer of FUZE Biotech, emphasized the groundbreaking nature of this technology. “FUZE applies a product that is unique and never before seen,” Peterson said. “We focus on being chemical-free and winning the ‘race to zero.’ We believe that when it comes to chemicals, more is never better. Our research and development is dedicated to being effective while applying as little as possible. Replacing a current existing technology with a FUZE application can reduce chemicals in our water systems by up to 50,000 pounds per million yards of textiles. Yes, we are effective; in terms of revolutionary technology, we are the only single product known that will not create bacterial-resistant ‘superbugs’ while still being a wide-spectrum antibacterial biostatic agent.”

1888 Mills and FUZE Biotech have been working tirelessly together in 1888’s Pakistan factories to test and refine the application of FUZE to create the best product possible for the hospitality industry. This partnership is set to redefine industry standards, ensuring that commercial and hospitality textiles are not only cleaner and safer but also more sustainable and cost-effective.

Posted: October 11, 2024

Source: 1888 Mills®, LLC