Researchers from University of Fukui, Japan have optimized a decolorization process, known as supercritical fluid dyeing, in which supercritical carbon dioxide effectively penetrates fabric fibers to remove the dyes. The extracted dyes can be reused, and the fabrics be redyed. The study was led by Professor Kazumasa Hirogaki and Visiting Professor Teruo Hori and achieved successful optimization of the decolorization process, enabling the dye removal from clothes with minimal environmental impact. This study builds on outcomes from the NEDO Feasibility Study Program/Feasibility Study Program on New Technology and was further developed under the JST COI-NEXT Program on open innovation platforms for industry-academia co-creation (COI-NEXT).

The researchers first created supercritical carbon dioxide (CO2) fluid inside a specialized heated and pressurized vessel and mixed it with a decolorizing agent before adding it to the dyed fabric. The idea was that by adding a decolorizing agent with a solubility parameter between those of the dye and the fabric, efficient decolorization could be achieved. Based on this premise, three decolorization methods can be outlined— to be used depending on the characteristics of the textile, the dyes, and the decolorizing agent.

The first method is called solvent trapping, in which supercritical CO2 dissolves and then traps the dye in a solvent phase at the bottom of the vessel. In contrast, the solid trapping method involves re-treating a processing body with a decolorizing agent or placing an adsorbent in the vessel. The supercritical fluid extracts the dye and then traps it onto the processing body or adsorbent. Finally, in the homogenous method, the decolorizing agent is completely dissolved in the supercritical fluid and the extracted dye also dissolves in the supercritical fluid.

Using these techniques, an astounding decolorization rate of over 90-100% was achieved. Notably, this strategy was found to be effective for polyester fabrics. Moreover, the processing liquids, extracted dyes, and decolorizing agents can also be repurposed and reused effectively.

Owing to its tremendous potential in terms of sustainability, the team of researchers from University of Fukui is actively seeking to commercialize this technology, with hopes of transforming the “make, use, and dispose” model of the textile industry into a truly circular and sustainable “make, use, and reuse” model.

Reference:

Research project name:

NEDO Feasibility Study Program / Feasibility Study Program on New Technology

JST COI-NEXT Program on open innovation platforms for industry-academia co-creation (COI-NEXT). 

Researchers name: Professor Kazumasa Hirogaki, Visiting Professor and President of SUSTAINA TECH Co., Ltd. Teruo Hori.          

Affiliation: University of Fukui

Link to research project summary page: https://fukumira.hisac.u-fukui.ac.jp/ 

Posted: October 23, 2024

Source: University of Fukui

Despite this challenging market environment, the Rieter Group recorded a gratifying order intake of CHF 629.8 million in the first nine months of 2024 (2023: CHF 452.2 million) in all market regions. In the third quarter of 2024, orders increased by 78% year-on-year to CHF 226.4 million (2023: CHF 127.2 million). This means that the order intake has increased for the third quarter in a row.

Sales

Rieter’s cumulative sales in the first nine months of 2024 amounted to CHF 584.3 million (2023: CHF 1 092.9 million), a decrease of 47% compared to the prior-year period. Sales in the third quarter of 2024 were CHF 163.3 million (Q3 2023: CHF 334.7 million).

The Business Group Machines & Systems generated total sales of CHF 264.1 million in the first nine months of 2024 (-65% compared to the same period of the previous year). The Business Group Components posted sales of CHF 184.5 million, 11% lower than in the corresponding period of the previous year, while the Business Group After Sales recorded a slight decline of -1% to CHF 135.7 million in the first nine months of 2024.

Order backlog

As of September 30, 2024, Rieter has an order backlog of around CHF 690 million (September 30, 2023: CHF 900 million).

“Next Level” performance program

The transfer of resources and responsibilities to India and China to enable the key markets to respond in a more agile way to customer needs and cycles in the machinery business is on track. The planned cost savings were achieved. Rieter continues to consistently implement the action plan to increase profitability.

Outlook for the full year 2024

Due to the overall geopolitical situation and the general deterioration in consumer sentiment, the market recovery is proving to be more restrained than previously forecast. The first signs of a recovery in financial year 2024 have emerged in the key markets of China and India.

For the full year 2024, Rieter now anticipates sales in the range of CHF 900 million and an EBIT margin remaining at 2% to 4%.

Posted: October 23, 2024

Source: Rieter

The portal is particularly effective in supporting the induction of new specialists. Whereas in the past, training was provided and documentation handed over during commissioning, today users can learn independently of time and place and refresh their knowledge at any time. The content is definitely also suitable for training technical specialists. This makes the digital approach consistent and efficient.

The technical personnel at Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Solutions provide the content for the Digital Academy. Particular emphasis is placed on practical relevance. “Our customers define who should learn what, so that the training packages are targeted and customized,” explains Tilmann Seidel, Vice President Customer Services. The BCF module is currently available worldwide in English, Spanish and Turkish.

The portal is to be made available for all processes of the Oerlikon Business Unit Manmade Fibers Solutions in the future. The digital academy for the POY process is already under development.

Digital learning is the future

The online training center, which is located on the e-commerce platform myOerlikon.com, contains a collection of e-learning modules on the topics of operation, maintenance and repair, currently for the Oerlikon Neumag BCF machines S+ and S8. Operating personnel as well as process engineers and technicians as well as quality managers are trained.

A high staff turnover rate among yarn manufacturers, which has increased again since the Covid-19 pandemic, underscores the need for new training concepts that do not require a physical trainer and are accessible 24/7. This is because in-person training requires a considerable logistical effort, incurs travel costs and disrupts operations more severely than individually scheduled online training. This is where the Digital Academy offers a distinct advantage: compact, role-based learning units that can be accessed via mobile and stationary end devices make the content quickly applicable for the user. A success check helps to internalize the content and consolidate what has been learned. Feedback functions can quickly clarify comprehension questions at any time. Access to the Digital Academy is location- or company-specific.

Posted: October 22, 2024

Source: Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions Division / Oerlikon Textile GmbH & Co. KG

Founded by Sanjeev Bahl, SAITEX is a global leader in sustainable garment manufacturing, known for its innovative approach to reducing the environmental impact of textile production. Founded in 2001, the company operates with a commitment to sustainability, circularity, and social responsibility. With facilities in Vietnam and Los Angeles, SAITEX employs cutting-edge technologies such as closed-loop water systems, energy-efficient processes, and clean chemistry to minimize waste and carbon emissions. The garment operation is bluesign, Fair Trade, LEED, and B Corp certified, underscoring its dedication to ethical manufacturing practices.

SAITEX partners with leading global brands to create high-quality denim and apparel while continuously pushing the boundaries of responsible production, setting a benchmark for the future of fashion.

Now that both the SAITEX Mill and Laundry are bluesign® system partners, brands can label their denim garments as bluesign DENIM, produced and processed entirely within SAITEX’s facilities. The bluesign DENIM label requires that the denim fabric is bluesign APPROVED from a system partner mill, and that the garment is processed in a system partner laundry, ensuring compliance with bluesign’s strict environmental criteria. This allows brands to source bluesign APPROVED denim fabrics directly from SAITEX Mill, have the garments processed at SAITEX Laundry, and achieve an end-to-end clean denim production process for consumers. With bluesign® APPROVED chemicals used in both fabric manufacturing and garment processing, brands can easily meet sustainability standards with SAITEX as their one-stop solution for clean denim.

This partnership aligns with bluesign’s dedication to reducing the textile industry’s environmental footprint by ensuring that textiles are made with responsible resource usage and worker safety. By becoming a bluesign System Partner, SAITEX enhances its commitment to eco-friendly production practices, offering transparency and traceability throughout the garment life cycle.

Opened in 2022, SAITEX’s fabric mill near Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, represents the next generation of sustainable manufacturing. The mill integrates spinning, weaving, dyeing, and finishing processes under one roof, with a core focus on environmental responsibility. Leveraging advanced technologies, it reduces energy consumption, minimizes the use of harmful chemicals, and is on track to build a closed-loop water system to minimize freshwater intake, which will be completed by mid-2025. This state-of-the-art facility reflects SAITEX’s commitment to setting new standards for responsible production and circularity in the global textile industry.

• The mill features solar panels with a 3-4 MW capacity, reducing carbon emissions by 2,000+ tons annually.
• The facility is designed with LEED Gold Certified specifications, ensuring minimal environmental impact through energy efficiency. LEED Gold certification is expected in November 2024.
• The mill utilizes Smart-Indigo technology for hydrosulfite-free dyeing, resulting in 90% less CO2 emissions, 70% less energy use, and 30% less water consumption.
• SAITEX aims to achieve carbon neutrality by 2030 through continued innovations in energy and resource efficiency.
• The fully vertically integrated mill, from spinning to garment manufacturing, ensures lower environmental impact on both the fabric and laundry sides of the production process.

Sanjeev Bahl, CEO of SAITEX, said, “Becoming a bluesign System Partner is another step in reinforcing our mission of sustainability, transparency, and responsibility. With bluesign, we’re not just setting a new standard for responsible denim manufacturing; we’re driving a broader movement toward clean chemistry. This is about creating a system that’s safe for people and the planet—putting the human side of manufacturing at the center of everything we do. It’s our responsibility to ensure that our processes are as clean as they are efficient.”

Daniel Rüfenacht, CEO of bluesign, added, “We were proud to welcome SAITEX Laundry into bluesign over 10 years ago as the first system partner denim laundry in the world, and it is thrilling for us to now have SAITEX Mill join the system partnership as well. Brands can now source bluesign APPROVED denim fabrics from SAITEX Mill for their collections, and with both the mill and laundry as system partners, they can label their denim garments as bluesign DENIM, ensuring a fully compliant and sustainable production process under one roof. Together, we are making significant strides toward reducing the global environmental impact of denim production.”

This partnership strengthens bluesign’s Denim Initiative, which brings together key players in the denim industry to create safer, more sustainable denim products. With SAITEX’s vertical integration and advanced technology, the global denim market is one step closer to achieving environmental responsibility and social equity.

Posted: October 21, 2024

Source: bluesign®

In Peru the textile and clothing industry is one of the driving sectors of the national economy. The Country is the world’s leading producer of alpaca fibers (over 80% of global production of this fiber is produced in Peru). Cotton cultivation and processing are also significant, particularly in the northern part of the Country. In 2023, Peru exported textile and clothing products worth a total of $1.87 billion, marking a 19.6% increase compared to the previous year.

“In a context of a needed technological renewal for Peruvian textiles,” said Marco Salvadè, president of ACIMIT, “the Italian attendance at Expotextil is strategic. The local textile industry needs to renew its machinery and raise the quality of its processes to stay competitive. Italian technology offers Peruvian companies suitable solutions for more efficient and resource-saving production.”

Over the years, the Peruvian textile industry has already benefited from partnerships with Italian textile machinery manufacturers. Peru is the second-largest market in South America for Italian manufacturers. In 2023, Italian textile machinery exports to Peru reached a value of around 18 million euros. In the first six months of 2024, Italian sales amounted to approximately 8 million euros.

Posted: October 21, 2024

Source: The Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers (ACIMIT)

Founded in 1989, Texollini is a U.S. textile manufacturer with expertise in synthetic fibers, offering capabilities from fabric production to dyeing, printing, finishing, design, and research and development. Its major clients include New Balance, Champion, Patagonia, and Alo Yoga.

The company expects that the acquisition will strengthen its synthetic fiber production technology and enable it to the growing near-shoring trend in the Central American region. Equipped with fully automated production lines, Texollini’s factory can handle the entire process, from fabric production to dyeing and printing, around the clock. Texollini’s product range encompasses more than 4,000 unique fabrics. Its monthly production capacity is also substantial, with 85 knitting machines capable of producing 1 million pounds of fabric and a dye house that processes 1.2 million yards of fabric each month. Texollini’s factory in Long Beach, Calif., is well-positioned with easy access to major transportation networks, including highways, sea, air, and rail, making logistics within the United States more convenient.

Hansae will leverage Texollini’s synthetic fiber development technology and expertise to expand its product categories and portfolio, including activewear, underwear and swimwear. In particular, to increase orders and profitability, it aims to expand high-value product lines like activewear.

Kim Ik-Whan, CEO of Hansae, said that Texollini is a company with outstanding technology and production capability, adding the acquisition is expected to further strengthen Hansae’s global competitiveness. He also expressed his commitment to ensuring that the company continues to invest and innovate to maintain its edge in the global fashion industry.

Posted: October 17, 2024

Source: Hansae Co. Ltd.

Beste and Rieter have signed an order to exclusively equip the newly founded spinning mill, FILUM S.r.l., in Bergamo, Italy, with the latest Rieter technology, including a complete ring spinning system. This is a pivotal step in the ITACO project, which encompasses every phase of cotton production — from the cultivation of organic cotton in southern Italy to spinning in Bergamo and garment manufacturing in the Prato region. Everything is done within a few hundred kilometers, providing unparalleled control over quality and sustainability, making Beste’s supply chain fully transparent.

From fiber preparation to winding, the new spinning mill will be exclusively equipped with the latest Rieter technology. With the fully electronic ring spinning machine G 38, equipped with the compacting device COMPACTapron, Beste produces combed compacted yarn that meets the highest standards required for its ITACO collection.

The all-in-one digital mill management system ESSENTIAL connects data throughout Beste’s new spinning mill, giving the company a comprehensive view of all relevant performance indicators from bale to package. The fully automated piecing robot ROBOspin ensures consistent performance of the ring spinning machines and minimizes personnel deployment. The fully automated roving bobbin transport system SERVOtrail Direct further reduces personnel requirements as no manual bobbin transport is needed.

Giovanni Santi, CEO of Beste, stated: “We engage with partners who share our philosophy and standards. Rieter machines meet our demand for the highest quality and enable us to produce yarns for our garments that embody the design and quality hallmarks of ITACO, our unique, fully traceable Italian cotton project.”

Roger Albrecht, head of the Rieter Business Group Machines & Systems, adds: “We are proud that Beste has chosen our technology to accelerate their growth momentum. Our ring spinning system perfectly fits into this complete Italian production chain, supporting the ITACO project’s vision of high-quality, sustainable garments.”

Posted: October 17, 2024

Source: Rieter Ltd.

The launch of Jeanologia’s first laser in 1999 marked the beginning of a new era for the textile industry, improving sustainability, quality, and efficiency. By eliminating hazardous practices like sandblasting, this disruptive technology enhanced processes and redefined the concepts of innovation and sustainability in an industry rooted in craftsmanship. Today, this technology is used in 50% of global jean production, solidifying its position as an essential tool for top manufacturers and fashion brands.

Jeanologia has successfully integrated laser technology into the DNA of denim without losing sight of its classic heritage. This balance between tradition and modernity has cemented its significant impact on the industry. “Laser has enabled more sustainable production and opened up creative possibilities that were once unimaginable,” said Fernando Cardona, Head of Jeanologia’s Brainbox.

25 LASER YEARS capsule collection of ‘old new designs’

To commemorate this milestone at Kingpins Amsterdam, Jeanologia will offer an interactive visual journey through the history of their laser technology and present a specially designed capsule collection to celebrate this anniversary.

This installation will showcase a special collection that captures the magic of laser by merging the classic with the modern. Patches, embroidery, and natural wear effects evoke the nostalgia of traditional denim, while the technology plays the silent protagonist behind each finish. The garments illustrate how laser allows iconic vintage effects such as stone washing, worn-out looks, washing marks, rips, and marbling effects using tools like the “Light Ripper” or “Light Scrapper.” The collection also explores the numerous creative possibilities these tools enable, including hyper realistic laser details, denim elements and bleach-like stains. This nostalgic approach invites the reinterpretation of the past through updated historical models that encapsulate the idea of continuous evolution and improvement in laser design.

This “old new designs” capsule collection symbolizes the connection between Jeanologia’s legacy and its vision of a greener, more responsible textile industry, celebrating its history while inviting both the industry and consumers to be part of a more sustainable future in denim.

As part of the 25th-anniversary celebration, Jeanologia will offer a digital version of this capsule collection, with 25 digital designs that pay homage to the evolution of laser technology and its transformative impact. Visitors can also experience the unique digital design process with eDesigner software, taking home their digital garment to produce it sustainably anywhere in the world.

Jeanologia invites brands, designers, and consumers to be part of a new era of denim, where tradition and technology merge to create a greener, more innovative, and sustainable future.

A tribute to the ‘Denim Tribe’

Jeanologia does not commemorate this anniversary alone. The collections and the accompanying narrative are a shared tribute to the global community of brands, designers, and manufacturers who have embraced laser technology and contributed to its progress. “More than a celebration for Jeanologia, this is recognition of the entire industry, the ‘denim tribe’ that has courageously and responsibly adopted this technology, advancing towards a more sustainable future in fashion. Without their collaboration, we wouldn’t have achieved this impact,” emphasizes the Head of Technological Development at Jeanologia.

Jeanologia: over 25 years transforming the textile industry

Since 1994, Jeanologia’s mission has been to create an ethical, sustainable, and eco-efficient textile industry. The company works closely with brands, retailers, and their suppliers on their transformative journey, offering disruptive technologies, innovative software, and a new operational model. Its revolutionary solutions, such as laser technology, G2 ozone, Dancing Box, e-flow, and H2Zero, have revolutionized the textile sector, offering unlimited design and finishing possibilities. These advances not only reduce costs but also save water, energy, and chemicals, ensuring zero pollution.

In 2024, Jeanologia celebrates the 25th anniversary of its pioneering laser technology, launched in 1999, which revolutionized denim finishing by replacing harmful practices and eliminating the use of harmful substances. With the same purpose, Jeanologia now faces the dual challenge of reducing the environmental impact of garment dyeing processes—one of the most polluting in the industry—through its revolutionary ColorBox technology and implementing its ATMOS ozone washing process as the reference technique for eco-efficient denim aging.

Posted: October 17, 2024

Source: Jeanologia

“Through this partnership with Kaihara Denim and ROICA by Asahi Kasei, we are taking bold steps to drive denim circularity empowered by joint expertise and devotion,” said Dennis Hui, Global Business Development Manager, Denim at Lenzing. “The synergy between ROICA EF yarn, LENZING ECOVERO fibers with REFIBRA technology, and Kaihara Denim’s exceptional craftsmanship has given life to premium, resource-efficient denim fabrics that have sustainability, performance, and style at heart. This partnership not only underscores the shared commitment between Lenzing and our partners to create excellent products while doing better for the environment4, but also serves as a catalyst for driving the transformation towards low impact practices4 across the denim value chain and beyond.”

Weaving the future of denim with collective innovation

The new denim collection boasts a special fabric composition, making the most of ROICA EF yarn and LENZING ECOVERO fibers with REFIBRA technology thanks to their resource-efficient attributes. ROICA EF, made of pre-consumer recycled content as well as featuring excellent stretchability, is integral to the flexibility, and comfort of the fabric. On the other hand, LENZING ECOVERO fibers with REFIBRA technology, comprises up to 20 percent of post-consumer textile waste, which is sourced from cellulose-rich materials or polyester-cotton blends, supporting natural softness to the denim fabric.

“Our vision for sustainability at Asahi Kasei is to achieve zero emissions and seek to recycle all of our industrial waste,” said Hiroaki Shinohe, chief marketing officer of ROICA Europe at Asahi Kasei. “Our innovative ROICA EF yarns, which is 30-percent lower in CO2 emissions compared to regular yarns, exemplify this dedication. By partnering with Lenzing and Kaihara Denim on a recycling concept that gives new life to pre-used materials, we are able to leverage our collective expertise in sustainable stretch fabrics. We are thrilled that the incorporation of LENZING ECOVERO with REFIBRA technology and Kaihara Denim’s premium denim craftsmanship can provide an exceptional fabric that meets the growing consumer demand for environmentally consicous, comfortable denimwear.”

Redefining denim applications for high-performing, eco-conscious fashion

The collection offers three distinct denim fabrications — super stretch (Monster Stretch by Kaihara Denim), comfort stretch, and low stretch (selvedge denim) — each crafted with Kaihara Denim’s artisanal expertise using the meticulous blend of LENZING ECOVERO with REFIBRA technology and ROICA EF. This innovative denim fabric features a subtle bulkiness and reduced drape, delivering a unique hand feel. The versatility of the new denim fabric opens a world of possibilities for fashion designers and brands, empowering them to create stylish, resource-efficient garments that range from everyday chic, casual wear to workwear.

“As Lenzing’s long-standing partner, we are thrilled to be part of this transformative journey with ROICA by Asahi Kasei that embodies our concerted efforts towards driving positive change across the global denim landscape,” said Hirofumi Inagaki, executive officer, general manager of Sales Department at Kaihara Denim. “Our long history and established expertise in premium denim manufacturing allow us to unlock the full potential of LENZING ECOVERO with REFIBRA technology and ROICA EF, resulting in this innovative, resource-efficient denim collection. Together, we are reshaping the future of sustainable denim applications, both casual and formal, paving the way for a more circular fashion value chain.”

The new denim collection will be showcased at the Lenzing booth (no. 12 in blue zone) and ROICA booth (no. 10 in yellow zone) during Kingpins Amsterdam, October 23–24, 2024.

Posted: October 16, 2024

Source: C.L.A.S.S. Eco Hub

The ceremony was attended by prominent figures including President Rodrigo Chaves Robles of Costa Rica, Minister of Foreign Trade Manuel Tovar, Korean Ambassador Keun Seok Jeon, and over 80 buyers.

In his remarks, President Rodrigo Chaves said, “This is an occasion to once again reaffirm the cooperative relationship we have built on trust, stability, and mutual respect with Global Sae-A, which has played a central role in Costa Rica’s development.”

The newly completed third spinning mill of Sae-A Spinning is located in Cartago, about 20 kilometers southeast of the capital, San José. The facility has a capacity of 36,000 spindles and can produce 8 million kilograms (kg) of yarn annually. With this addition, Sae-A Spinning’s total capacity now reaches 106,000 spindles, securing an annual yarn production of 24 million kg. This expansion enhances economies of scale and positions the company to flexibly meet the evolving demands of its global customers.

Global Sae-A entered the Costa Rica market in 2015, establishing its yarn production facility, Sae-A Spinning, which produces high-quality yarn. The company achieved full vertical integration of the entire apparel manufacturing process — from spinning, knitting, dyeing, and sewing — a first for Korea’s apparel OEM industry.

Over the past decade, Global Sae-A has invested $200 million in Costa Rica, starting with the operation of its first mill (34,000 spindles, 8 million kg annual production) and followed by the completion of its second mill in 2022 (36,000 spindles, 8 million kg annual production). With the completion of its third mill, Sae-A Spinning has tripled its production capacity and expanded its ability to produce a wide range of yarns in response to rapidly changing market trends.

Global Sae-A continues to explore investment opportunities in Latin America, in alignment with the growing near-shoring trend, where buyers seek to position production facilities closer to consumer markets.

WK Kim, chairman of Global Sae-A Group, commented: “With this expansion, we are optimizing CAFTA tariff benefits for duty-free exports to the U.S., further strengthening the global textile supply chain.

“Sae-A Spinning has been a leader in sustainability by using 100-percent U.S.-grown cotton, ensuring traceable and eco-friendly production processes. We remain committed to maintaining our leadership through our traceability system, sustainability certifications, and green manufacturing processes.”

Global Sae-A Group continues its growth as a global conglomerate, encompassing the world’s largest apparel manufacturer and exporter Sae-A Trading, fabric manufacturer Wintex, sportswear production specialist Tegra, fashion brands In The F and S&A, as well as the top-ranked international construction company Ssangyong Engineering & Construction, and corrugated paper and packaging company Tailim.

Posted: October 14, 2024

Source: Global Sae-A Group